exhib review text
Prada’s Spring-Summer 2014 womenswear is nominated by fashion designer Peter Jensen who said that it has ‘all the elements of a perfect fashion collection: colours, textures, shapes, ideas and some sort of fantasy’. According to designer Miuccia Prada, the collection is addresses a ‘concern with women and the strength of women’ which it articulates through bright colour-blocking, printed images of female faces, and graphic bra shapes appliquéd and embroidered onto garments’ surfaces.
Raf Simon’s first prêt-à-porter collection for Dior illustrates the Belgian designer’s ability to reference the historic codes of the Parisian house whilst maintaining his characteristic commitment to modernist shapes and technically innovative fabrics. Fashion blogger Susie Bubble reported that the show represented ‘a shift that will define this new epoch in fashion’.
Recent Central Saint Martins graduate Sadie Williams designed her Totemic Collection inspired by Harley Davidson riders, Japanese motorcycle gangs and the futuristic 1960s designs of French couturiers Cardin and Courrèges. Constructed from lurex fabric transformed through heat and embossing processes, Peter Jensen considered the work ‘one of those little moments where one feels happy to be working in fashion’.
Milliner Stephen Jones, along with editor Dan Thawley, compiled the 12th issue of A Magazine, devoted to fashion illustration and dedicated to Anna Piaggi. Writer and curator Hettie Juddah appreciates, in particular, the inclusion of faxes in the magazine between Jones and his fashion house clients that reveal ‘the great milliner’s own working method’.
Tracey Neuls’ Reflector Bike Geek Shoe combines the formality of a classic dress shoe with performance and sportswear details. The moulded rubber sole and reflective fabric details make the shoe a smart safety tool for everyday cyclists.
Designs of the Year 2014. Design Museum, London, 26 March-25 August 2014, curated by Gemma Curtin, designed by Hunting & Narud.
Rick Owens Spring-Summer 2014 runway photograph © Miguel Medina.
Rick Owens Spring-Summer 2014 runway photographs © Scott Shuman.
Exhibition installation photographs © display_mode.